The Prince Charlie jacket is the most formal and traditional jacket worn with a kilt. It is the equivalent of a tuxedo in Highland dress and is typically worn for formal events, weddings, black-tie dinners, and Scottish ceremonies. When styled correctly, the Prince Charlie jacket creates a polished, elegant, and sophisticated look.
In this guide, we’ll walk through the key elements of a Prince Charlie jacket outfit, how to wear it properly, and tips for looking your best when dressing in full Highland attire.
1. What is a Prince Charlie Jacket?
The Prince Charlie jacket (often called a PC jacket) is a formal Scottish evening jacket designed specifically for wearing with a kilt.
Key Features of a Prince Charlie Jacket
- Short cut – Unlike regular jackets, the Prince Charlie jacket is cropped at the waist to accommodate the kilt's high rise.
- Decorative silver buttons – The front, cuffs, and tails are adorned with silver buttons arranged in sets of three.
- No front closure – The jacket is designed to be worn open, allowing the waistcoat to be visible.
- Epaulets on the shoulders – These add to the military-inspired aesthetic of the jacket.
The Prince Charlie jacket is traditionally paired with a matching waistcoat, a kilt, and other formal Highland accessories.
2. When to Wear a Prince Charlie Jacket
A Prince Charlie jacket is reserved for formal occasions, much like a tuxedo. It is commonly worn at:
- Scottish weddings (especially by the groom and groomsmen).
- Black-tie events and formal dinners.
- Burns Night suppers (celebrating Scottish poet Robert Burns).
- Graduations or special ceremonies.
- Highland balls and formal dances.
For semi-formal events, an Argyll jacket may be a more appropriate alternative, as it offers a less formal yet still elegant look.
3. Essential Components of a Prince Charlie Outfit
To complete the Prince Charlie ensemble, you’ll need the following items:
a) Kilt
The kilt is the centerpiece of the outfit and should be made of wool with a traditional tartan pattern. Choose a clan tartan, a district tartan, or a universal tartan such as Black Watch or Royal Stewart.
- Ensure the kilt is properly fitted – It should sit at your natural waist (above your hips) and fall to the middle of your kneecap.
- The pleats should be at the back, and the flat apron should be in the front.
b) Prince Charlie Waistcoat
A three-button waistcoat is worn under the Prince Charlie jacket.
- The waistcoat is typically made from black wool or Barathea fabric.
- It should be well-fitted and sit just above the top of the kilt.
- The shirt should be neatly tucked in for a clean look.
c) Dress Shirt
A formal white dress shirt is worn with the outfit.
- The most traditional choice is a wing collar shirt, which complements the bow tie.
- A standard collar shirt can also be worn but is less formal.
d) Bow Tie
A black silk or velvet bow tie is the standard choice for a Prince Charlie outfit, similar to a tuxedo ensemble.
- Some may opt for a ruched tie or cravat, but the bow tie is the most classic and formal choice.
e) Sporran
A formal sporran is essential when wearing a Prince Charlie jacket.
- The best choice for this outfit is a dress sporran, usually made of fur and silver accents.
- It is worn at the center front of the kilt, hanging from a sporran chain.
f) Kilt Hose and Flashes
- Kilt hose (long socks) should be worn pulled up to just below the knee.
- Flashes (decorative garters) should be tucked into the folded top of the kilt hose, leaving a small portion visible.
The most traditional sock color for formal wear is white or off-white, though some opt for black or dark-colored kilt hose for a modern look.
g) Ghillie Brogues (Formal Kilt Shoes)
Ghillie brogues are the traditional footwear for formal kilt outfits.
- These are lace-up shoes with long laces wrapped around the ankle.
- The laces should be tied neatly and evenly for a polished look.
If ghillie brogues are unavailable, black leather dress shoes can be worn as an alternative.
h) Sgian Dubh (Dagger)
A sgian dubh is a small ceremonial dagger traditionally worn tucked into the top of the kilt hose on the right leg.
- The handle should be partially visible above the sock.
- While optional, the sgian dubh adds an authentic touch to the outfit.
i) Kilt Belt (Optional)
A kilt belt is usually NOT worn with a Prince Charlie jacket, as the waistcoat provides enough structure. If a belt is worn, it should be simple and not overly bulky.
4. How to Wear a Prince Charlie Jacket Properly
Step-by-Step Guide to Wearing the Outfit
- Put on the kilt – Fasten it securely at the waist, ensuring the pleats are at the back.
- Add the kilt hose and flashes – Roll down the top of the socks to hold the flashes in place.
- Lace up your ghillie brogues – Wrap the laces around your ankle and tie them neatly.
- Attach the sporran – It should hang at the front center of the kilt, just below the waistcoat.
- Wear the dress shirt and waistcoat – The shirt should be neatly tucked in, and the waistcoat should sit snugly above the kilt.
- Put on the Prince Charlie jacket – Ensure the jacket sits properly on your shoulders and remains unfastened.
- Tie the bow tie – Make sure it is neatly tied and proportional to your collar.
- Add the sgian dubh – If wearing one, tuck it into the right sock.
- Final check – Adjust your outfit, ensuring everything is symmetrical and well-fitted.
5. Common Mistakes to Avoid
a) Wearing the Jacket Closed
The Prince Charlie jacket should never be buttoned. It is designed to be worn open, revealing the waistcoat beneath.
b) Choosing the Wrong Kilt Length
A kilt that is too long or too short will throw off the proportions of the outfit. The kilt should always fall to the middle of the kneecap.
c) Wearing a Casual Sporran
For formal wear, a dress sporran (fur and silver) is the best choice. Avoid wearing a day sporran (leather with simple designs) with a Prince Charlie jacket.
d) Incorrect Sock and Shoe Pairing
- White or off-white kilt hose is traditional for formal events.
- Black leather dress shoes should be worn if ghillie brogues are unavailable—avoid casual footwear.
e) Forgetting Proper Accessories
Skipping the bow tie, flashes, or sgian dubh can make the outfit look incomplete. Each element contributes to the full Highland dress aesthetic.
Conclusion: Wearing the Prince Charlie Jacket with Confidence
The Prince Charlie jacket and kilt ensemble is the epitome of formal Scottish Highland dress. When worn correctly, it exudes elegance, tradition, and sophistication, making it perfect for weddings, formal gatherings, and cultural events.
By ensuring proper fit, selecting the right accessories, and following traditional styling rules, you can wear a Prince Charlie jacket with confidence and pride, showcasing the rich heritage of Scottish attire.
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